Hair Damage 101: How To Fix The Breakage You Probably Don't Even Know You Have
You might not think you have damaged hair, but whether you spent last week debuting new platinum locks (like Rita Ora) or just getting a blowout, you’ve probably racked up breakage and split ends from simple, everyday things. Going too long between trims, using a flat or curling iron that’s too hot—even wearing tight ponytails too often—causes damage, especially on long and colour-treated locks.
Luckily, we checked in with two experts to learn how to rehab hair back to health and prevent damage from getting worse: Anthony Campbell, the man behind Jessica Biel and Emma Watson’s locks, and Sascha Breuer, who works with Anne Hathaway and Zoe Saldana. From the best restorative masks, to the products you should be avoiding, you’ll find everything you need to know above. (And if you’re planning to undergo a big colour change read our tips here!)
The No. 1 tip from both of our experts? You need a good hair mask! They suggest Wella’s Colour Save Mask ($24), Shu Uemura’s Moisture Velvet Nourishing Treatment ($68), or Kerastase’s Masque Chroma Riche ($63). “Shampoo and condition your hair as you normally would, then apply a mask to towel-dried hair and let it sit between 30 minutes to an hour before rinsing it out,” Campbell says. (There’s no need to let it sit overnight, newer formulas work fast.)
Anyone with breakage should avoid heat completely, but if you must heat style it’s very important to use a thermal protection product. “They definitely work—but only to a certain temperature,” Breuer says. He recommends trying Kiehl’s Heat-Protection Silk Straightening Cream ($17) on wet hair before blow drying. If you want to flat iron or curl hair, try Oribe’s Soft Lacquer Heat Styling Spray ($33). “It actually seals your ends and protects them from irons,” Campbell says.
Many flat and curling irons—even those with temperature settings—turn on at 400 degrees, a temperature that can literally cook the inside of your strands. “280 degrees is a good place to start,” Breuer says. “You want to use the lowest possible temperature to get your desired result.”
No temperature setting on your irons? It’s time to upgrade. Try Solano’s Sleek Heat Flat Iron ($130) or Hot Tools’ Professional Spring Curling Iron ($30).
Obviously a trim is the fastest—and best—way to get rid of damage, but if you’re in a pinch try Campbel’s trick: when he arrives on set and sees split ends, he immediately reaches for oil. “It brings life back to the hair,” he says. Coat your strands with Oribe’s Gold Lust Oil ($48) or Macadamia Natural’s Healing Oil Spray ($15). (Use the former for thick locks and for latter for fine hair.) Let it soak in and then gently smooth your ends with low heat and a round brush, which will give you temporary smoothness.
Damage requires gentle, restorative products. Breuer recommends Living Proof’s Restorative Collection of Shampoo ($28), Conditioner ($28), and Targeted Repair Cream ($28), or try the Restore Travel Kit ($29). “Most products made for damage can weigh down your hair and make it look flat,” Breuer says. “But these are different—they’re very light.”
The less stress you put on your hair, the less breakage you’ll have. Coat you hands with oil and wrap strands into a loose bun to conceal split ends, or a side braid to hide breakage until it starts to get better. (Use a soft elastic, like the Ribbon Elastics ($10) by Goody.)
If you’re at a point where your hair snaps just by brushing it you need to turn to a professional, Breuer says. “Ask around for recommendations and set up consultations on your lunch break with new stylists to see what they can do to help you,” he says. It’s also time to ask yourself why you have so much damage in the first place. “It’s probably time to get a new colorist or lay off the heat,” Campbell says.